Day 1
We meet at the Fifth Season outdoor store in the town
of Mount Shasta where we conduct a pack check and
discuss gear options. We then drive about an hour
and a half to the trailhead at Brewer Creek (Elev.
7,400 ft). We spend the rest of the day hiking to
our base camp at the "Hotlum Hilton" (Elev.
10,200 ft), just yards from the snout of the Hotlum
Glacier. The evening is spent acclimating, making
prusik cords and enjoying fine camp food prepared
by your guide.
Day 2
After breakfast we begin our mountaineering skills
seminars with a review of ice axe and alpine ice climbing
cramponing techniques, snow and ice anchoring principles
and belaying techniques. The rest of the day is spent
learning basic glacier roped travel and navigation
techniques with a tour of the lower Hotlum Glacier.
Day 3
Today is crevasse rescue and ice climbing day. After
breakfast we journey up to the middle of the Hotlum
or Chicago Glaciers and find a suitable crevasse in
which to cover proper crevasse rescue techniques including
hauling systems, prusiking (rope ascending) techniques
and one-on-one rescues. Everyone should have an opportunity
to be lowered into the crevasse. We will finish up
with some vertical ice climbing out of the crevasse
before heading back to camp.
Day 4
Today is summit day. We awake early, 3-4 am, for our
alpine start up the Hotlum Glacier route of Mt Shasta.
Putting our glacier travel skills to work, we climb
up the Hotlum Glacier exiting either left onto an
ice gully or right onto the Hotlum/Bolum route, depending
on conditions and group strength. Large crevasses,
ice falls and seracs, and big time views are encountered
along the way. A truly magnificent route with a spectacular
summit (14,162 ft). That evening is spent resting
at base camp.
Day 5
The morning is spent reviewing any skills we need
to cover before breaking basecamp and descending to
the trailhead. We usually arrive back in the town
of Mount Shasta around 3pm.